Mémoire - Citron
Mémoire - Citron
Gâteau de voyage citron
The jam in this cake—made from whole lemons grown with great care on Hidekazu Kan’s farm in Setouchi—is swirled randomly into the batter so that the subtle flavors of the zest hit your palate differently with every bite. Try different beverage pairings and cuts to see this gâteau de voyage take on an endless variety of flavors and textures that subtly linger in the mouth.
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Product Summary
Internal capacity
1 piece (350g)
Raw materials
Whole egg(Domestic), sugar, butter, almond powder, lemon, wheat flour, honey, liqueur / raising agent (contains milk, egg, wheat, almond)
Expiration date
After thawing, please consume as soon as possible before the flavor is lost.
Preservation method
Store frozen (below -18℃)
After thawing, we recommend refrigerating.
Serving suggestion
This cake should be stored in the refrigerator and is best when thawed to just above room temperature, when the cake and lemon flavor will be soft enough to simply melt in your mouth. We like to pair this cake with a hot drink, whether a black tea like Ceylon and Keemun or a lighter option like sencha and dongfang meiren. As a gâteau de voyage, it is the perfect snack to bring along on a picnic or outing.
With the memory of the southern France in the taste

How IT STARTED
Beginning
"What is the first sweets to be delivered?"
At the atelier Koto, we were looking for an unforgettable taste in our memories, unraveling the recipiented recipe note.

I want to provide dishes that do not rely on high -quality ingredients.
The first thing I returned was the motto we took care of.
The luxury ingredients here are a ranked one, such as A -rank Japanese beef and tuna. I don't think it's bad. But we want to compete with materials that can be easily obtained in ordinary households. I think it's the job of the chef to bring out the best taste from any familiar ingredients.
Still, it is carefully grown and healthy and delicious. If you can feel the beginning of summer, it is desirable.
Does the ingredients we want exist somewhere?
The Mad Scientist
Agricultural cultivation is science
One day, a message was received from Hidekazu Suga of "Citrusfarms Tate Michiya", a lemon farmer on Ikuchi Island, Onomichi City, Hiroshima Prefecture, overlooking the Seto Inland Sea.

Suga, who says, "Agricultural cultivation is science," repeatedly challenges to create "delicious lemon", allegedly that it has been common sense. As a person who is also responsible for food culture, there is only respect for that attitude.
"Do not do anything extra"
Mr. Kan expresses his commitment in such words. In other words, don't use wasted fertilizer. Therefore, based on the "soil medical record" made by analyzing the soil, the appropriate amount and composition of the nutrients required for "delicious lemon" are scientifically calculated to create an environment centered on minerals. It is going to go. He grows lemon in care and healthy.

Among the many things I learned from Mr. Kan, the idea of pesticides was particularly open.
"Pesticide is not evil. It's just a tool for pesticides and sterilization of agricultural," says Kan, who does not deny the use of pesticides. Therefore, a "non -chemical" lemon that does not use chemical materials is also created, but also creates a "lemon" lemon that suppresses the use of chemical materials to less than half of the practice.
We are vulnerable to the word "pesticide -free". However, there is no doubt about whether it can be said to be healthy and leads to improving the taste. In the first place, the taste is something that your body feels. Isn't we danced by the immediate character information and forgot about that? I felt that Mr. Kan's lemon was throwing a stone in such an era.
"I want you to send the existing lemon stock to the atelier in Tokyo."
When I noticed, I was contacting Mr. Kan. Suga -san's lemon sweets raised in a thorough manner must be a re -questioning era.

Fête du cytron
Memory of Southern France
"In search of the lost time", a big giant in French literature in the 20th century. During the work, there is a famous depiction that the protagonist soaks Petit Madeleine in black tea. He is invited by a sweet fragrance and recalls the past of eating Petit Madeleine in the same way as a child.
"Proust effect". The moment he met the lemon full of cardboard, which was received by Mr. Kan, he was later called by the author, Marcel Proust. What I remembered about the gentle scent of lemon wrapping the atelier was the daily scene of working at a southern France restaurant.
For Southern France, lemon is very familiar. After winter, there are no days when you can't see it, not only in the kitchen and tables of the restaurant, but also in a very ordinary home.
What is particularly unforgettable is the day I visited the Fête Du Citron, which is held every February in Manton located on the southeast border. 150 tons of lemon fills the seaside town where the sunshine shines brightly and dyes yellow. For those who live in this area, they are reminded of how lemon is close to living.

The harvest of lemon ends in early spring. However, it is said that the most required season in Japan is summer. Is it because there is a refreshing feeling that removes the fatigue caused by the swelling heat? In any case, lemon, which has a strong summer image, must be the ingredients we were looking for. I was convinced that I met Suga's lemon.
Confiture
Special jam
"What should I make with this lemon?"
When I cut it in half, I felt a surprisingly freshness.

When I hear lemon sweets, I remember Tarte au Citron. In France, it is a classic cake that handles everywhere, from supermarkets to stars with stars. The flavor of the lemon works well and it is a favorite sweets, but it is not suitable for enjoying Suga's fresh lemon.
"Then let's make a lemon jam"
I thought so intuitively.
Jam making takes more time and effort than expected. First, cut about 400 lemon received from Mr. Kan in half and squeeze everything. The squeezed lemon is removed one by one with a kitchen knife, and only the peel is used, and the heat is heated until it boils in a watered pot. While repeating this work about 5 times, add sugar to make the jam slowly.


In front of the tremendous process, it would be a lie if you did not regret it. However, making carefully without any hassle is one of the most important chefs. It doesn't change even if you make sweets.
After a long time, the stewed lemon became a special jam. From color to fragrance and viscosity, I see the luxurious jam that has completely changed from the first state.
"How about putting this into Gateau de Boyage?"
Immediately, the whole thing, cut and separated a whole from an important person, floated behind the eyelids.


Gâteaux de Voyage
Feelings that can be put in Gato de Boyage
17th century France. It is said that Marquis Sevinier, who had traveled from Brittany and Versailles several times a year, had ordered a patissier one day.
"To prepare a cake that is easy to eat even during your trip and will not be damaged immediately."
Thus, Gato de Boyage, which means "baked confectionery that is perfect during travel," was born. The concept is simple. It is made of pantry classic material, stored at room temperature for about 2 weeks, is wrapped in a cut state, can be eaten easily while traveling, and is suitable for sharing in a group. The cake with lemon jam is exactly Gateau de Boyage itself.

I think it is a confectionery that has been breathing in Japan for a long time and is familiar with souvenir culture. Including family and friends, they ask for greetings to those who have taken care of them, and sometimes eat them together. The souvenir itself may provide a little topic, so it would be nice to bring things that are hard to get and the most seasonal ones.
Whether it's a snack on your destination or a souvenir for your loved ones, there is no joy to be overwhelmed if this sweets can grow an irreplaceable time.


OUR RECIPE
Ingredients make recipes
In our recipe notebook, there was also a lemon Gateau de Boyage page. But it is not enough to make it exactly. Because a recipe is made by ingredients.
In fact, what I felt when I ate Suga's lemon was that the sugar content, sourness, and moisture content were completely different depending on the climate and harvest of each year. This lemon was harvested in April 2024. The sugar content, which has risen to the largest class from February to March, has been a bit calm, and the sourness has become mellow. The task of finding a recipe of Gateau de Boyage, which matches the personality of the lemon in April 2024, has begun to find out while repeated trial and error.

The feature of this Gato de Boyage is the moist texture. Originally, the butter plays a moist feeling. However, this time, in consideration of compatibility with lemon, the ratio of eggs increased because the amount of butter was reduced. In order to emulsify properly, it was necessary to pay close attention to mixing and egg temperature control. Gradually, the recipe based on this lemon gives a certain contour.
In particular, the weight was to put the jam slowly in the dough and plenty of Limon cello during the stage of baking the cake. As a result, it was definitely better to lay it down than freshly baked.
A Piece of cake
Infinite taste and texture
"Let's sell this Gateau de Boyage without cutting."
Certainly, the cut cake has a uniform ingredient and looks good. But I think it's mechanical and boring. In this one cake, lemon jam is kneaded endlessly. You may think it's random and irregular. But that's why the texture and taste are slightly different depending on where you cut.

Some people like to cut them thickly, while others prefer slices. The thickness you want may vary depending on the time and timing you eat.
In the morning, cut thick and dark tea for breakfast, and after dinner, thin cuts with thin cuts. It's also fun to compare. This Gato de Boyage has an infinite taste and texture of the drinks and drinks to be combined. Here is the reason why I left a little lemon peel in the jam.
I hope you can meet your own deliciousness.



